The blue tarp of Sarlat...

The blue tarp of Sarlat...
I put the ugly blue tarp up in January to stop rain from leaking into the stonework while we wait for permission to renew it...

Tuesday, December 31, 2013

On An African Shore, part two


Chez Abdou at Sidi Kacem beach, south of Tangier.

It’s about the craziest place I’ve ever witnessed, like visiting a topsy-turvy, lop-sided version of Munchkin land: a patchwork of small terraces and enclosed palisades nestled in an acre or so of sand dunes, sagging thatched roofs and/or faded canvas tents strung overhead.

Dizzying circuits of flagged paths and small stairs, riots of potted palms and tropical plants sprouting from every kind of colorful container one can imagine. Jumbles of multi-hued plastic chairs and tables, torn swags of curtains, rusting Berber rifles festooning columns, large photos of various kings of Morocco in ornate golden frames.

And all the while the broad Atlantic roars in, pounding the widest and longest stretch of beach I’ve ever seen; cats mew at your feet, a chicken flutters around crowing for bits and pieces tossed from the steaming fish tajine, freshly simmered on the charcoal brazier in the open-air kitchen; sips of Moroccan rosé wine chilled in a tub of ice.

Abdou himself presides, a dignified intelligent looking man that belies, somewhat, his rumored past as a circus acrobat – although there is certainly the look of carnival in his décor touch.

An afternoon spent in a childlike vision of paradise; a good way to end a year and to start a new one. 

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